Sunday, October 12, 2008

Stacey's weekly surf report

Lifeguard station #19



Watch out little bird.. that kelp will get you!



Those waves were pumpin!

I went surfing again yesterday at Mission Beach. It was a rough day. The rip current was strong and the waves were choppy. The current was so strong that a wave would knock me over and in order to stay in one place I would have to dig my feet into the sand and practically lay horizontally in the water AND the current would still push me! I got stuck in the kelp a few times (I swear that I am a magnet for it), got a few new bruises, and a few more sore muscles ... but it was still a great day! I told the guy in the surf shop that I feel one with the ocean when I am stuck in the kelp! ha! actually, I get really annoyed by it! Even though, I had to fight the ocean every minute- I still had fun. It is exhilarating. I think I am getting more consistent with being able to stand on the board. Hopefully I will get some pictures of my surfing soon.. so I have some proof of my gnarly skills. Later dudes!

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