Oh my goodness, I had so much fun surfing yesterday! kraig did too! Our lesson started at 6:30 am at Sunset Beach (which is close to Santa Monica). It was so beautiful and peaceful. At one point we could see the sun rising in the east and the moon setting in the west at the same time. How perfect! For the lesson, we practiced a little on the beach with our instructor, Tom- he was pretty cool and laid-back- your typical surfer.- he would cuss at us to get the point across. We loved it and thought he was funny!
He would help us catch waves by telling us when to paddle, giving a little push on the board, and telling us when to hop up. We learned some new tips like using the wave to push the board up and thus, push your butt up in the air! Kraig and I were both able to stand on the board and ride for just a little bit. It is really hard. Kraig had a problem getting one of his feet to go in the right place, and I had a hard time letting go of the board once I was on my feet. Tom called me a "stinkbug" since I would get stuck with my butt in the air! Oh well. We both wiped out at least 20 times- but I think that is fun too! It's not like we were in 10 foot waves or anything, probably like 2 feet- I don't know. But yah, we both did stand 4-5 times. I fell so many times that I do not remember how many that I did right!
Anyways, we had great wetsuits so the water did not even feel cold. Everything just felt great! It is such a rush to even be out there trying to surf- and even better when it actually worked! I felt in harmony with ocean! The first time that I got up, I actually just jumped off. Tom told me that when it happens, I should not be so shocked that I actually made it up! I was so hyper when we were done, because I was so excited about surfing! I told my mom that I wanted to become a surf bum, and she said that is because I am "part bum" already. She might be right. Anyways, I am trying to figure out how to get back out there one more time before we leave.
We finished up our spectacular morning with breakfast at Denny's. MMMmmm. nothing but the best for us!
4 comments:
Based on the picture below, are you sure you're not exaggerating just a tad? Those waves look more like two inches. :-P
Are you both coming back for the wedding?
oh please! it's something called.. things that are farther away look smaller! yes, we will be back for the wedding- keep kraig company because I am a bridesmaid!
Posers....you really tossed those surf boards aside and got on boogie boards. Will talk about the wet suit pic later.
now i have scrutinized the wetsuit picture and feel very uncomfortable about the whole thing! we might still go again though before we go to Seattle. Suppposedly, if you surf WA- you need twice as thick of a suit as the ones we wore!
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