Yesterday, we went surfing again. We had another lesson with the same guy- Tom- who is so funny and helpful! We did even better than last time, even though the ocean was much choppier! We had to work a lot harder to paddle through the breaking waves- but, I loved every minute of it. I caught Kraig with a giant smile on his face- so I know he did too. Anyways, Kraig stood up and stayed on- then I went right after him and stood up too! I couldn't let him have all of the fun! I stood up and actually rode a wave 3 times in a row... Just when I was feeling like I might just be the best surfer in the world- a giant wave knocked the wind out of me! Those surfing gods are very fickle! heehee Now that I kinda know how to get up on the wave, I have to learn to get in the middle of the board. I was always too far left- so the board would go left- making me lose the wave after a little bit! I don't care though! because when we got it.. it was like 10 times the adrenaline rush as you get when you are just floating around and wiping out! I wanted to surf like 10 more times and give my life savings to the instructor so he would take me again!
There was one time, that I set out to catch this wave- and then what do I see in the calm water ahead of me??? Kraig- right in my way. We both had to bail off of our boards. Oh well- it was funny. Another time- there was some kind of seabird right in the way.. so I had to bail out- I couldn't hurt him- he was just enjoying the ocean too! Also, since it was a lot choppier- we both fell off of our boards one time when we were just floating on the swells! It was a great time had by all. Kraig and I also had a race paddling to Tom to go on the next wave. Oh yah.. GVSU swim team.. I won it, hands down! We were both really tough and took every wave we could get when the rest of the class had quit! I am too cheap to give up time that I paid for!
In summary, we both fell a lot and got smashed by a lot of waves- but we both stood and rode a little bit at least 5 times! It was such a great morning, because I feel I have finally accomplished one of the things I have always wanted to do. Trust me, my next contract will be near a beach where we can get better and go surfing a lot more! I am so addicted.
2 comments:
Sounds like you both had fun. Looks like your college years I paid for was worth it (swimming part).
Love you both, Mom S.
See! I told you all that money did not go to waste! I was by far the best paddler in the group! You can be proud of the contribution that you made to that.
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